We visited Amma's Ashram for one night and one night only. A remarkable place not quite like any other I've ever known, an unusual cross between a spiritual retreat, a religious cult, a communal living experiment and a humanitarian aid foundation.
We take a scenic route to Amritapuri by ferry through the dreamy Keralan Backwaters. On arrival we make our way to the temple and the International Office run by helpful white men in white lungis with sweet north American accents who efficiently process new arrivals and issue darshan tokens (the famous hug and blessing from Amma). Here the bureaucratic epicentre of this busy ashram with Ammatapuri Internet, an Information Office and a cottage printing industry. Groups of Indian ladies and white ladies, all in saris, supported by the youth sitting at tables diligently piling newsletters and Amma pamphlets into labelled batches to be shipped off to Mangalore and beyond. The literature comes hot off the in-house printing press in nearby outhouses, rolled in on barrows across the yard past the holy cow shed.
We are issued with our “Code of Conduct” (no kissing or hugging – there is only one hugger around here), assigned a room and advised to attend a guided tour at 5pm. Us boys are housed in the new block on the edge of the sprawling complex in a dorm block that is still mid way in construction, the ashram clearly can' t build dorms fast enough to cope with devotees' demand. It's growing...The girls go to their assigned space in an old block which they are to share with other creatures they will later meet.
The architecture of the ashram is 1960s Soviet communist style, it juts incongruously out of the jungle it inhabits – ugly pink concrete flat blocks stand haphazardly, spreading through the trees. The complex is adorned by posters of Mother adding to her iconic status and sometimes bizarre edicts
“Darshan is reserved today only for people who have not had darshan already this week.” Again the communist analogy is not far away.
We dutifully attend our induction and are presented along with the other 50 new arrivals with a 40 minute video on Amma, a promotional showcase of the incredible achievements of Amma's humanitarian initiatives – millions of dollars spent on disaster relief, slum renovation, education, care homes, healthcare, research for a better world - run through her charitable foundation Embracing the World.
It is a sleek marketing video, too sleek, which immediately makes me suspicious but I'm not sure why as there is clearly wonderful work going on...thousands of people being helped, my skeptical mind? Too many statistics? (I later learn that Amma's marketing team is second to none) The most impressive element of the work of this NGO for me is the mobilising of volunteers to drive forward the work thus seemingly allowing greater funds to be focussed on charitable work. The income for this charity is huge and I am left wondering where this money comes from...
Our guided tour includes a trip to the cow shed where it all started with Amma performing miracles as a child, the attention she received from visiting holy men was much to the consternation of her father who eventually allowed his daughter to follow her spiritual path with the guidance of the persistent saddhus. The complex has grown into the jungle and village from this shed and now homes 3000 residents and hundreds more visitors, people from different religions, all Mother's children come to the ashram and follow the rules. I observe serene ghosts phlittering, contemplating who they are, spaced out with slight deferential smiles on their way to meditation sessions and their seva. Seva is the selfless service which the armies of residents and visitors are encouraged to partake in daily, working for others without expectation is said to allow individuals to reap the wealth of a peaceful mind and an open heart. Seva includes working in harmony with others cleaning, cooking, building dorms and serving cappuccinos.
In a preparatory talk prior to our darshan, our guide explains that with Amma, the divine mother, “it's not a regular human being that we are dealing with here.” We are warned that she mirrors how we approach her and she can communicate with everyone. My curiosity of this lady is awakened and I am struck by the strength of devotion in her following. We are also advised of additional regulations that Mother has put in place for her visiting flock.
The main auditorium stands central to the complex, an imposing functional building consistent with the architecture, the lack of walls allows the tropical air and mosquitoes to wash through. This is where the action and fun happens. An atmosphere of calm with rows of devotees sitting on plastic chairs, dozing, dancing, singing and watching the stage where behind a crowd Amma is hugging. The stage, flanked by two giant iconic kitsch photos of Mother meditating by a waterfall and standing in a meadow,could be the setting for a presidential rally. Speakers pipe out mantras: “absolute bliss”. An infirm Indian woman positioned in her wheel chair below a TV screen gazes in awe at live images of Amma giving darshan on the stage, curiously watching the divine mother thrust head after head to her breast. When Amma goes for a break the screens switch to footage of Amma out and about, in action, with her adoring jubilant fans.
After 3 hours in the queue we realise with irritation that we are being delayed by a rogue “priority darshan queue” which reminds us we are in India. But eventually our group is summoned to the stage, our anticipation heightens and my belly rumbles.
We join the snake of plastic chairs moving along in line from chair to chair in the comical queuing system. Amma sits in the centre of the stage on a golden throne attended by her inner circle of staff, senior holy men in orange and attendees. This inner sanctum is surrounded by a further throng of devotees deep in meditation, residents are rota'd for meditation stage duty. A powerful energy pervades this space; a cumulation of meditative hum resonating with the hush of excited pilgrims moving closer to Mother and vibrations of sanskrit mantras and music piped through the vast auditorium. I close my eyes, letting the incredible energy wash over me, I feel at peace.
After my long wait I find myself near to Amma and the final moments before my darshan move quickly. A line of holy men streams through the pilgrims paying respects and honour to Mother, kissing her hands, touching her feet (normal respectful behaviour in India). Mother's assistants beckon me forward, enquiring of my language in preparation to be passed onto Mother who appears to be multi-tasking. In between hugging her devotees she holds court discussing possible business issues with her aides and laughing. It seems that important issues of her empire are being discussed and although this could potentially distract her from her embracing, she always re-focusses for a second hug and gives different attention to each person, responding to the individual. Sometimes a quick clasp and others a long warm cuddle. An incredibly smooth operation. I am firmly encouraged to my knees alongside pilgrims from a second complimentary queue coming from the other side of the stage. The moment is arriving, my hand placed in preparation on the throne. The busy throng of assistants almost becomes a final tussle which I find overwhelming as I am trying to compose myself for my darshan. Then it happens, my head is pushed forwards to Mother's breast and she is whispering in my ear “Maradona, Maradona, Maradona” (this mantra is a gift), she gives me a sweet and it is over.
As we go to bed Mother is still busy giving darshan on the stage, she has been going for an impressive 12 hours already. These marathon sessions have been known to continue for over 20 hours and have been happening for over 20 years now. Amma has embraced over 30 million people. After the darshan sessions end Mother returns to her room and stays awake on her mobile deep into the night resolving issues across her international network of centres and projects.
We enjoy the peace of the ashram and indulge in bargain cappuccinos and delicious chocolate coconut cake served to us by selfless devotees. Amma recommends the “middle way” - an appealing approach to spirituality which balances meditation, self-discipline and cake. We also do a spot of shopping, perusing the Amma merchandise – stuffed Amma dolls, pens, Amma 2012 calendars – a whole industry. In fact the Amma operation is more than a few dolls, it's a series of well established limited companies – Amrita Enterprises Limited, Amrita Business School.
Amma encourages all visitors to take time to relax and learn how to be peaceful, becoming witness to our thoughts and body. Obediently I silently participate with the communal journey to a divine conciousness, meditating and doing morning yoga on the beach – only sounds of the waves of the Arabian Sea, a Japanese man's breathing exercises, Hindu music and the blaring horns of passing tuk tuks remind me I am in India. The ashram has grown into the village and village houses find themselves in a sea of ashram, perhaps the village road which cuts through will be redirected through an underpass in the future. Interestingly and spookily part of the code of conduct is not to communicate with the villagers.
As I leave the headquarters of Amma International I feel peaceful and calm and ponder on the experience and movement. Amma is clearly an amazing individual and has mobilised a mass movement in a country, culture, psyche and religion which allows greater space for spirituality and for revering individuals as living gods – Indian law even has allowances for living gods and goddesses – something that is quite alien to Westerners.
Further research on the web proves interesting, I discover quite controversial stories about the organisation including an Ex-Amma Forum, a place where ex-devotees come together to support each other with recovery from their ordeal.
The girls, visited by rodents in the night, departed swiftly back to the beach and the boys phlitter further into the backwaters to file reports and play shithead.
I really enjoy reading & viewing your blog.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Pushkar Festival | Pushkar Fair Dates |Pushkar Camel Festival